Things to Check before Buying a Second-Hand Car

1. Papers: The Checks You Can Do from Your Phone

• RC details: the owner’s name, registration date, chassis and engine numbers, fuel type and any hypothecation. Verify them against the government record through Vahan services on Parivahan or the mParivahan app.
• Chassis number on the car: match the RC to the number stamped on the body and the VIN plate. Scratched or re-stamped numbers are a hard stop.
• Loan (hypothecation): if the RC shows a lender, the seller must provide the bank’s NOC and Form 35 so the loan can be removed from the record.
• Pending traffic fines: check the registration number on e-Challan; in Bengaluru, also on the Bengaluru Traffic Police site. Agree in writing who pays.
• Insurance: the policy should be current. Look at the no-claim bonus on recent policies: a car several years old with a 0% NCB has probably had claims, which is worth asking about.
• PUC: a valid pollution certificate is needed for the transfer.
• Service records: dates and odometer readings should rise steadily. Our guide to reading a service history explains what to look for.

2. Outside: Accidents, Rust and Repairs

• Look along each side in daylight. Ripples, mismatched shades or overspray on rubber seals point to repainting.
• Gaps between doors, bonnet and boot should be even on both sides.
• Open the bonnet and boot: look for wrinkled metal, fresh welding or non-original bolts on the inner panels.
• Check the windscreen for cracks; a crack in the driver’s line of sight is a safety issue.
• Look under the car for heavy rust, oil drips and fresh undercoating applied over damage.

3. Tyres, Wheels and Brakes

Tyres tell you a lot. Even wear across the tread is good; wear on one edge suggests alignment or suspension trouble. The four-digit code on the sidewall is the week and year of manufacture: “2321” means the 23rd week of 2021. Rubber ages even when tread remains, so old tyres are a cost to plan for.

4. Inside: Wear That Should Match the Odometer

• Steering wheel, gear knob, pedal rubbers and the driver’s seat bolster should look about as worn as the kilometres suggest.
• Test every switch: windows, mirrors, central locking, lights, horn, wipers, infotainment, reverse camera.
• The AC should blow cold within a couple of minutes.
• With the ignition on, all warning lights should come on and then go out once the engine starts, including the airbag light.

Signs of Flood Damage

Bengaluru’s underpasses flood in heavy rain, so this matters here. Lift the carpets and look for silt, rust on seat rails and floor bolts, and a damp or musty smell. Fogging inside the headlamps and corroded connectors under the dashboard are other warnings. A flood-damaged car can develop electrical faults for years.

5. under the Bonnet

• Engine oil should not be milky (possible coolant leak) or full of grit.
• Coolant should be clean, at the right level, and not oily.
• Look for leaks, cracked hoses and a battery with corroded terminals.
• Start the engine cold if you can. Blue smoke suggests oil burning; thick white smoke that doesn’t clear can mean coolant; heavy black smoke on a diesel suggests fuel or injector problems.

6. the Test Drive

1. Drive on the roads you’ll use: traffic, speed breakers and a clear stretch.
2. The car should run straight without pulling, including under firm braking.
3. Gear changes should be clean; a manual clutch that bites very high is worn. For automatics, see our automatic buying guide.
4. Listen for knocks over bumps and whines that change with speed.
5. Afterwards, check the temperature gauge, and look under the car for fresh drips.

If you are unsure, bring a mechanic you trust. It costs little compared with the price of the car, and a good seller will be glad to have an independent opinion.